THE STORY OF SAFE MILK
Milk “is usually drawn… from cows which often have flaking excrement all over their flanks, by milkmen who are anything but clean. It is drawn into milk pails which are seldom or never thoroughly cleansed…”
This was the 1892 message of William T. Sedgewick, professor of biology at MIT and later co-founder of the Harvard-MIT School for Public Health Officers. Milk, the principal source of nutrition for the majority of infants and young children at the time, was also a purveyor of death. In New York City, from 1890-2, infants under one year of age accounted for one-fourth of all human deaths and children under 2 years for one third of the total, numbers that had been rising since mid-century.

AMA prizewinning cartoon (from Straus, Disease in Milk)
As noted above, the unsanitary conditions of milk provision and transport fostered the presence and growth of bacteria. Milk transmitted such varied infections as typhoid fever, streptococcal infections, diphtheria, diarrheal pathogens, and tuberculosis (from tuberculous cows), all of which could kill children in an age without antibiotics. Secondly, dairies in large cities often sat next to distilleries to take advantage of throwaway fermented grain, called swill, to feed their cows. Swill, however, provided inadequate nutrition for cows. Their milk was thin and bluish, lacking fat and other basic ingredients. Lastly, milk, especially swill milk, was frequently adulterated with chalk, flour, or other ingredients to render it whiter. 
Cartoon, Frank Leslie’s Illustrated News May 29, 1858 showing central figure
trying to arouse swill-fed cow too weak to stand (Internet Archive)
Public protest and shaming of local governments were major forces that persuaded cities to put curbs on swill and adulterants. Newspapers, particularly Frank Leslie’s Illustrated News, published damning reports accompanied by vivid cartoons exposing the practice. The famous cartoonist Thomas Nast weighed in as well.

Thomas Nast cartoon, "Swill Milk" Harper's Weekly, Aug 17, 1878
(Hathi Trust)
The discoveries of bacteriology in the late 1800s brought the realization that terrifying scourges, such as typhoid fever and diphtheria, were preventable. In the case of milk, eliminate the bacteria and milk should be safe to drink.
A physician in Newark, New Jersey, Henry Leber Coit (he went by “Leber”), took one approach. After spending five years visiting dairies in New Jersey, Coit, at a local medical association meeting,
Henry Leber Coit (Wellcome Library)
outlined a process to produce milk under hygienic conditions. He assembled a group of volunteer doctors, won approval of the N. J. legislature, and created the first American medical milk commission. They found a dairyman, Stephen Francisco, whom they subsidized to maintain a sanitary dairy that used only tuberculin-negative and well-fed cows (tuberculin testing of cattle began in 1892 in the U.S.). In 1893, Francisco began to release milk “certified” by the commission and is said to be the first to sell bottled milk. After initial resistance by the farming industry, certified milk became popular, similar milk commissions sprouted elsewhere, and eventually a national American Association of Medical Milk Commissions emerged, with Coit as president. By that time, certification required the bacterial count of milk to be 10,000 bacteria per cubic centimeter or less. Certified milk was twice the price of “regular” milk, limiting its use by penny-pinched families.
Another, more certain, approach to clean milk was pasteurization. Since Louis Pasteur’s discovery that heat treatments would prevent spoilage of beer and wine, enthusiasts for safe milk applied similar techniques. Sheffield Farms Dairy in Bloomville, New Jersey was the first dairy, in 1891, to use a pasteurizer, one imported from Germany. As with certification, resistance came from the dairy industry. Dairy spokesmen claimed it was too expensive, that “dirty” milk would not be screened out, that it changed the chemistry of the milk, leading to rickets or scurvy, and that it ruined the taste. These claims, after investigation, proved to be baseless. The benefits were obvious, especially the precipitous fall in infant death rates in all large cities that made the transition. Pasteurization killed harmful bacteria, leaving numbers of the remainders well below those of certified milk. So even without home refrigeration, milk might spoil but seldom led to disease.

Henry Koplik (Wikipedia)
As early as 1889, while Coit was seeking his first dairy, a New York City physician opened a small clinic for young children in Manhattan’s lower east side. He supplied heated milk, sterilized
rather than pasteurized. The physician, Henry Koplik, ironically earned more fame for his discovery of the small red intra-oral spots diagnostic of measles that bear his name than for his work for poor children. Koplik received funding for the clinic, named the Good Samaritan Dispensary, from a philanthropist, Nathan Straus. Nathan, a co-owner with his brother of Macy’s, aware of the large number of poorly nourished children in New York, many of whom had mothers who toiled long hours in sweatshops, in 1891 opened a string of milk dispensing stations, staffed by nurses. Concentrated in poor areas of New York, the stations sold cheaply, or gave away if needed, a new
Nathan Straus (Wikipedia)
product, pasteurized milk, processed in Straus’ own pasteurizers. By 1915, Straus dispensaries were distributing over 2 million bottles annually of milk and infant milk formulas in New York. Infant and child mortality rates fell rapidly.
The work of Nathan Straus in reducing infant mortality was widely recognized by medical and public health authorities. Milton Rosenau, Professor of Preventive Medicine and Hygiene at Harvard, in 1912 wrote a summary of milk, its chemistry, bacteriology, and processing. He dedicated the book to Nathan Straus, whose dispensaries must have saved tens of thousands of young lives. Strangely, despite the ease and efficiency of pasteurization, Dr. Coit doggedly promoted certified milk for many years, though eventually the superiority of pasteurization won out. Major cities like New York, Chicago and Boston legislated requirements for pasteurization before the 1920s.
Unpasteurized milk is still available, though not without risk. Pasteurization is here to stay and has proven safe for over 100 years.

Straus pasteurizer of bottled milk (from Straus, L G, Disease in Milk: The Remedy Pasteurization, Internet Archive)
SOURCES:
Kurlansky, M, Milk: A 10,000-Year Food Fracas. 2018; Bloomsbury Publishing, N.Y.
Greer, F, “One Hundred Years Later – Milk Safety Revisited.” 1999; Ped Res. 454: 124-5.
Koplik, H, “The History of the First Milk Depot or Gouttes de Lait with Consultations in America.” 1914; JAMA 63 (18): 1574-5.
Waserman, M J, “Henry L. Coit and the Certified Milk Movement in the Development of Modern Pediatrics.” 1972; Bull Hist Med 46 (4): 358-90.
Hygienic Laboratory, U.S. Public Health and Marine Hospital Service, Various Authors, Milk and its Relation to the Public Health. 1909; Government Printing Office.
Straus, L G, Disease in Milk: The Remedy Pasteurization. The Life Work of Nathan Straus. 1917; E. P. Dutton, New York.
Rosenau, M J, The Milk Question. 1912; Houghton Mifflin Co., N.Y.
Markel, H, “Henry Koplik, MD, the Good Samaritan Dispensary of New York City and the Description of Koplik’s Spots. 1996; Arch Pediatr Adolesc Med 150 (5): 535-9.
A full index of past essays is available at: https://museumofmedicalhistory.org/j-gordon-frierson%2C-md
,






%20by%20Jan%20Matejko.png)





.png)









